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Tutorial: How to Etch Acrylic with a Silhouette Curio

First set up your small platform with mats 2, 1 and the top cutting mat. This will give you a platform of 4.

Next take your acrylics template and determine where to put it on your mat. This needs to be a precise

location. I used the lower right hand corner. Make sure your mat is very sticky. If the mat is not sticky

your template and acrylic will move which will cause a failure in etching your acrylic. Press the template

down firmly.

Remove the protective coverings on top and bottom of acrylics. If the bottom covering is paper it can be

left on, your option.

Load the platform into the curio and add the etching tool into the first or red section of the cutting head.

Place your acrylic inside the template. Press firmly. Then open your file on the curio software. 

Set up your template and acrylic cut file in your software to match the exact layout on the machine. Remember your rule is your friend in this step. Precision is key!

Open the Design Page Settings tab. Using the settings shown in the photo below to set up your page. 

Next open the Emboss/Deboss tab.

Select the area to deboss or emboss. I use deboss as my setting.

Now choose the effect you want for that section. I choose the spiral for the leaves. Next you will set the

spacing, the smallest spacing is .004 and will need to be typed into the box. The slider and arrows will

not allow you to go this low.

Continue selecting the various sections you want to etch and the effects. Shown below is the cross hatch

for the lower section of the acrylic.

Move over to the Cut Settings tab. Select the Cut setting followed by the Red Tool 1. Next we will

select the material type for the Red Tool 1.

Choose the metal etch settings for the Red Tool 1. We will modify the settings below to accommodate

the acrylic. Our platform is set to 4, the speed is 6 and the thickness is 17.

Prior to etching, you will want to cut off the cut lines for your template or move it so it will not be etched. Then send your etching job to your curio.

Now watch the magic happen!

When the item is etched carefully remove from the template with debris in place. You do not want that

to get on your mat as it will affect the mat’s stickiness. Once removed from the Curio, clean the surface of the acrylic with water and a soft rag. Now it is complete or ready to embellish. Shown here we used sharpies and a wet magic eraser to add color.

Now let’s see what you create for your customers using your Silhouette Curio!

Jamie

For more information on purchasing acrylics with etching cut files and coordinating plastic templates please join the Craft Chameleon Blanks Facebook group.

Thanks so much Jamie for stopping in today – I can’t wait to try out etching with my Curio!

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When Adele from Homesteader Chic asked about sharing a tutorial using window cling material, I couldn’t say yes fast enough! Adele and her daughter Sarah sell commercial use digital cut files featuring country-themed and farmhouse sign designs. Homesteader Chic is a mom-daughters-granddaughters business–each household in the family has at least one cutting machine, and several family members design cut files. Adele’s granddaughters (and grandsons!) are busy makers too! I’ll turn it over to Adele for the tutorial:

When Sarah was young, our family lived in Germany, where hand-snipped paper crafts were enjoyed by all ages. We learned to make Fensterbilder, stained glass-like window hangings made with colored transparent paper. Three decades later and back in the US, Sarah applies the same principles to make beautiful designs for glass and clear plastic projects using transparent vinyl.

Stained Glass Window Cling Tutorial

Supplies:

• Clear cling vinyl
• Transparent outdoor vinyl (such as Oracal 8300) in colors of your choice
• Opaque outdoor vinyl (such as Oracal 651) in black or other color for the outlines. Either glossy or matte will work. We use matte black.
• Clear transfer tape or paper (low-tack is best with cling vinyl)
• Scrap piece of vinyl backing sheet slightly larger than cling vinyl shape
• Free commercial use Stained Glass Look Tulip cut file

Steps:

1. Download the design file and save to your computer. Open the file in your cutting machine design software. Select all and group (this is important so all pieces will nest well). With the design grouped, adjust size of design so the gray circle is the size you’d like the finished window cling to be. For more tips, see the layout guide included in your zip file.

2. Ungroup design. Separate the design elements on your design screen.

3. Cut the design elements from vinyl and weed. If you are new to cling vinyl or transparent vinyl, test cut to check settings. We use a slighter higher blade setting than we do for Oracal 651.
   • Large gray circle = clear cling vinyl solid circle
   • Outline piece = dark opaque vinyl (keep outlines)
   • Colored pieces = colored transparent vinyl (keep cutout shapes)

4. Leave the clear cling vinyl circle on its backing and lay vinyl-side up on table. Press out any wrinkles or bubbles.

5. Apply transfer tape to the outline piece.

6. Prepare to apply outline vinyl carefully to the cling vinyl. Cling vinyl may stretch if the adhesive vinyl is removed, so we try to get it placed correctly the first time to avoid this.
7. First lay the outline piece, with unsticky transfer tape side down, over the cling vinyl circle and center it to get an idea of the width of the cling vinyl margin. Lift the outline piece off.

8. Place the scrap backing sheet, shiny side up, over most of the cling vinyl, leaving an inch or two of the circle exposed at the top. Hold the top of the outline piece, adhesive side down, just above the top of the cling vinyl and center it, allowing for a cling vinyl margin. Gently lay the outline piece in place on the small exposed part of the cling vinyl circle and press to adhere.

9. Gradually pull the backing sheet down and smooth the outline piece farther downward until the entire outline is adhered to the cling vinyl.

10. Remove transfer tape, again with a gentle touch. Instead of pulling the tape up, peel the tape backwards flat over itself, while holding the adhesive vinyl in place.

11. Using small pieces of transfer tape, your fingers, or tweezers, add the colored pieces one at a time, fitting them into the outline piece like a puzzle. If you need to adjust pieces, remember to peel instead of pulling. Press to set in place.

12. Lay the vinyl backing sheet over the design and go over the design with a scraper or a brayer to secure all pieces. Voila! It’s finished!

13. Remove window cling from backing. Moisten cling vinyl side and attach to window or other surface. The cling vinyl will be on the window side, the colored vinyl towards you.

View more stained glass cut files (plus a whole lot more!) at Homesteader Chic. Love this tutorial? Save it to Pinterest:

Yesterday, I shared a tutorial to create wood frames on wood signs. I understand that not everyone has the tools or time to do them. Today, I’m sharing a tutorial for faux wood frames.

Faux Wood Frame Tutorial

Supplies Needed

• Wood for sign – For help choosing wood, see this post.
• Paint/vinyl stencil to create your sign – This tutorial will work with whatever method and supplies you like best: vinyl, stencil, paint, stain, and so on.
• Painters tape – Buy it in bulk to save.

Tutorial

1. Cut your wood to size (or have your local home improvement store cut it) and stain or paint it the color you want your “frame”. Then, tape all the edges with painter’s tape. When taping, you’ll want to be sure that you tape off the same width on all sides. 
2. Apply your vinyl design to the wood. 
3. Paint the entire sign. 
4. Peel of the vinyl and painter’s tape and allow your sign to dry. 

That’s it! You can see my finished product in the photo below. This technique is a really quick and easy way to — not add a frame to your wood sign!

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Being the owner of a Silhouette Cameo or Cricut Explore can be totally life changing – because the machines are so flexible to be incorporated into so many different projects. Today, I’m thinking “outside the box” and sharing sea glass jewelry I recently made.

First, I have to share my failure. Originally, this post was supposed to be an etched sea glass necklace tutorial using Etchall Etching Creme. When I etched the sea glass, the etch was so light that it was barely noticeable. So, I started over. I soaked my sea glass pendant in Etchall Dip ‘N Etch to erase my failure and started again. Now, here’s a tutorial to create a sea glass pendant using a Dremel tool.

Sea Glass Jewelry Tutorial

1. Find some sea glass. If you aren’t familiar, sea glass is glass (from bottles, windows, etc) that was discarded or lost in the ocean. The waves tumble it to a nice frosted finish and it eventually washes on shore. It’s getting harder to find sea glass – because society uses less glass and more plastic in modern times. If you don’t live near the beach – you can order some here on Etsy (which is what I did). You’ll need to buy predrilled or drill a hole in it (mine came predrilled).
2. Create a design in Silhouette Studio or Cricut Design Space and cut it in vinyl. Weed it and apply it to your sea glass. You’ll see that there were little bits along the way that I didn’t weed out. No big deal.
3. Using a Dremel tool (I have a model 4000), and a grinding attachment you are going to grind off the top layer of glass around your vinyl.
4. Continue grinding until your go around your entire stencil and any bits in the middle. A smaller grinding tip would have been useful to me, but it wasn’t a big deal. 
5. Remove the stencil and rinse off the sea glass. 
6. When your sea glass dries, you’ll be able to touch up any spots you missed. Then, add a bail (that’s the mounting at the top that allow is to hang on a chain) and wear it – or sell it! 

As I’ve said before, and I will continue to say – don’t be afraid to try new things with your Silhouette Cameo or Cricut Explore. Experiments can sometimes turn into profitable ventures!

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Today, let’s look at something a bit different! I’m calling this ‘Reverse Etching’ – and it’s something I haven’t seen done among Silhouette or Cricut crafters. Usually, when people etch a surface they use vinyl as a stencil and etch inside the stencil. I was thinking to myself recently, why not use the negative space for the design? That’s just what I did over the weekend. Here’s how my two samples turned out and a tutorial.

Reverse Glass Etching

Supplies

• Etchall Dip ‘n Etch was used in this tutorial. You could opt for Etchall Etching Creme and follow the instructions on the bottle.
• Vinyl design
• Transfer tape
• Plastic cup and safety gear (googles and gloves)

Process

1. Cut your design in vinyl, weed it, and apply it to the items to etch. For this tutorial, I made two different wine glasses. On one, I did just the base; while on the other I did the top half. Be sure to have anything that you don’t want etched covered. Painter’s tape is helpful! 
   
2. Put your item to be etched into a plastic container and pour the Etchall Dip ‘n Etch over it. Allow the item to sit in the Etchall Dip ‘n Etch for 15 minutes. I just used a plastic cup. 
   
3. After 15 minutes, remove the glass item and rinse it in a stainless steel sink. Pour the remaining Etchall Dip ‘n Etch back into the container to use again.
4. Remove the vinyl and allow the item to dry.
5. My finished samples turned out great!
   

Etchall Dip ‘n Etch versus Etchall Etching Creme

These are two different products, but either can be used for this tutorial. Etchall Dip ‘n Etch is a amber colored liquid that you dip your item to be etched into for about 15 minutes. It is the consistency of water. Etchall Etching Creme is a thicker creme (think sunscreen) and is applied with a cotton swab or brush. You leave it on for only a few minutes. Both Dip ‘n Etch and Etching Creme can be reused.

Wondering about the vine I used above? Download it free at this link.

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